Cho Oyu Expedition Route Explained: Base Camp to Summit

Standing at 8,188 meters, it is known as the 6th-highest mountain in the world. Cho-Oyu is located between the Tibet and Nepal border, where you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Mt. Everest and other high peaks of Nepal and Tibet. Cho-Oyu has earned a reputation as the easiest climb, and climbers choose it before undertaking a Mt. Everest expedition. A mountain at the edge/place of honor among the Himalayan giants. The mountain is seen as a living god/presence watching over the valleys below. Cho-Oyu is seen as a goddess, serene yet powerful, nurturing. Cho-Oyu is known as the "Turquoise Goddess." Formidable, she is a source of life-giving water with glaciers and streams that sustain the village and wildlife in her shadow. For a climber, 8,188 meters is just a number. It's the ultimate goal, defining the length, difficulty, and danger of the journey. Cho-Oyu is the best choice for climbers who are seeking an experience to climb Mt. Everest. Cho-Oyu has only one route to summit Cho-Oyu. In June 2024, a team of sherpas has opened a new route, but the route is considered too steep and dangerous, and it demands more technical skill, physical fitness, and high-risk of avalanches compared to the Tibet routes. During the climbing period of Cho-Oyu, the accommodation is based on tent camps because above the Chinese base camp, there will be no teahouses or hotels. Until the expedition is complete, we have to stay in a tented camp, which includes dining, a kitchen, a guest room, and a bathroom, all in a tent camp. 
Before the expedition, it takes 8 days to reach the Chinese Base Camp (CBC), from where the expedition begins. Our team will set up the camps there. From there, the tented camp accommodation will start until you summit Cho-Oyu. 
For routes to climb and summit Mt. Cho-Oyu, the easiest and most popular route is from the Tibet side, which is the Northwest Ridge, known for the standard route and tricky route. It is the most popular, technically straightforward route, and the safest route compared to other routes. It involves a short, steep wall of rock and ice and a large, flat summit plateau. You can do the summit of Cho-Oyu mountain with moderate challenge from the Northwest Ridge of Tibet. 

 Base camp is established at 4,900 meters to 5,700 meters near the Nangpa La Pass. In Basecamp, we can acclimatize and prepare for Camp 1. In Basecamp, everything is well organized, from camping to meals. When the base camp is organized well, you can be more focused on climbing. Base camp teams will manage all camps and meals during the expedition period, so you can do proper acclimatization before summiting Cho Oyu. There are two base camps in the Cho-Oyu expedition. The first one is the Chinese Base Camp, and the second one is the Advanced Base Camp. After the Chinese Base Camp, we will head to the Advanced Base Camp. At the Advanced Base Camp, we performed a Puja ceremony for spiritual blessings and for the success of the summit. We will prepare for Camp 1 climbing. The duration of CBC to ABC is around 6 days, during which we will do preparation, acclimatization, gathering, and training. 

Camp-1 is located on a flat and broad snowfield that leads toward the upper mountain. Camp 1 is the high camp. It takes  4-6 hours of trekking from the Advanced Base Camps. The routes begin along the Gyabrang Glacier and a steep scree slope. Camp -1 stands at 6,400 meters. It takes 3 nights at Camp 1. At Camp 1, climbers will begin by using gear like crampons and other essential technical gear. Camp 1 is necessary for camp rotation, where climbers at high altitudes return to lower camps to acclimate their bodies to thin air so that they can avoid altitude sickness. 

Camp 2 is known as the 2nd high camp. After crossing the 20-to 30-meter ice cliffs, we will reach Camp 2. It involves 35-40-degree snow slopes. It takes roughly 5 to 7 hours to reach Camp 2  from Camp 1. We will descend from Camp 2 to Advanced Base Camp for acclimatization. Camp  2 is established at 7,100 meters high. Climbers use a jumar to scale steep ice sections safely, which is always secured with high-quality static ropes. At Camp 2, there is a rotation, which involves climbing to the camp and back to the Advanced Base Camp. Some well-prepared climbers can summit Mt.Cho-Oyu directly from Camp 2.

Camp 3 is the final high camp, and the ascent to and at Camp 3 is done with supplemental oxygen to ensure we are strong and healthy on summit day. Camp 3 is established to shorten summit day. From Camp 2 to Camp 3, the route is short, and it takes 3-5 hours,  but it demands physical effort due to its high altitude. Camp 3 is located just below the Yellow Band, a short but strenuous rock and snow cliff. Camp 3 stands at 7,450 meters high. At Camp 3, the camp is located under a series of protective rocks that intersect the upper basin's snowy slopes. Climbers depart from Camp 3 for the summit push between midnight (11 PM-1 AM to ensure a daylight return.  

The summit plateau is reached after ascending the 'Yellow Band' and the final steep snow slopes. Summit Plateau is a gently tilted field of snow and ice. Most summits begin at  Camp 3 (7,450 m- 7,500 meters around midnight to reach this plateau by early morning. The Summit Plateau of Cho-Oyu is a nearly flat snow and ice area situated at 8,000 meters to 8,188 meters. On a clear day, it offers breathtaking views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, and Nuptse. It is a dangerous point, so following your climbing guide's guidance and routes keeps you safe from danger. Reaching the true summit at 8,188 meters is confirmed when the ground finally drops away steeply on the other side, revealing a dramatic view of the Gokyo Valley of Nepal from the top of Cho-Oyu. Cho-Oyu offers panoramic views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, and the Gokyo Lake of Nepal. After summiting, climbers retrace their steps towards Camp-2 to stay overnight at a safe altitude. The next day, climbers descend to Advanced Base Camp, then prepare to return to Kathmandu after descending to Base Camp.